The question of the compatibility and consistency between sustainable development and luxury has puzzled researchers for about a decade. The incompatibility between luxury and sustainability is mainly due to the overconsumption, ostentation and indulgent characteristics of luxury consumption (Veblen, 1899). Researchers point out the irrelevance of luxury and sustainability (Davies et al., 2012; Joy et al., 2012; Henninger et al., 2017), because luxury values highlight personal pleasure and wasteful and careless behavior (Cervellon and Shammas, 2013) while sustainability is linked to altruism, sobriety, moderation and ethics (Janssen et al., 2013; De Angelis et al., 2017). For example, ephemeral luxury products (e.g., clothing) are short-term oriented (De Angelis et al., 2017) compared with enduring luxury products (e.g., jewelry) and thus are perceived as less socially responsible (Janssen et al., 2013). However, other researchers assert that luxury associated with quality, respect for materials, craftsmanship and durability (Vigneron and Johnson, 2004; Kapferer, 2010; Joy et al., 2012) is highly compatible with corporate social responsibility (CSR) (Osburg et al., 2021). They believe luxury products and sustainable development share many characteristics: rarity and beauty (Kapferer, 2010), natural material, slow manufacturing, skilled workforce, local manufacturing, heraldic tradition, vintage value and philanthropy (Cervellon, 2013; De Angelis et al., 2017). Athwal et al. (2019) defined sustainable luxury fashion is that luxury fashion products focusing on pursuing sustainable development, incorporating design, production, and consumption with the goal of balancing the development of the economy, environment, and society. Thus, we need to redefine what sustainable luxury means since the outbreak of the COVID-pandemic.

Behavior intentions refer to the attitudes or motivations when one intends to take a specific action (Ming-Shen et al., 2007). Several studies within marketing and consumer research have focused on consumer’s purchase intention toward luxury (Summers et al., 2006; Hung et al., 2011; Bian and Forsythe, 2012; Shukla, 2012; Chattalas and Shukla, 2015; Salehzadeh and Pool, 2017; Ku and Lin, 2018; Wang et al., 2018; Zhang and Cude, 2018; Jain, 2019a; Aw et al., 2021). However, only a handful of research focuses on the factors driving consumers’ sustainable fashion and sustainable luxury fashion intention. For instance, Joy et al. (2012) analyzed the perception of consumers in Hong Kong and Canada and found that young consumers separate luxury fashion from sustainability even though they tend to be more ethical. This might be due to consumers’ limited knowledge and awareness of sustainable fashion products (Han et al., 2017). Cervellon and Shammas (2013) pointed out sustainable luxury consumption links with consumers’ socio-cultural values, ego-centered values and eco-centered values in mature market. Ki and Kim (2016) based on self-determination theory, examined consumers’ intrinsic values and extrinsic values and how they influence sustainable luxury purchases. Jain (2019b) discussed the influencing factors of sustainable luxury fashion in an emerging country of India. He proposes a conceptual model based on a literature review by combining the TRA (Ajzen, 1991) with Schwartz’s value theory, but it is lack of empirical test. Later, Kaur et al. (2022) examined the impact of materialism (possessiveness, envy and non-generosity) along with attitude on the purchase intention of sustainable luxury products in India. A recent investigation by Wang et al. (2021) surveyed 677 responses from China and the United Kingdom, suggesting that the need for exclusivity in sustainable luxury items is negatively related to consumers’ purchase intentions in China, while the need for conformity and hedonic needs are positively related. However, most of these studies were conducted in mature markets before the COVID-pandemic. Researchers agree certain contexts affect consumers’ perceptions of sustainable luxury (Rolling and Sadachar, 2018); thus, it is worth exploring whether consumers in emerging markets, like China, perceive the high value of sustainability in the context of the luxury fashion industry in the Post-Pandemic Era.

The COVID-19 pandemic has disrupted fashion activities globally, including fashion weeks canceled, stores closed and workers furloughed, causing industrial crises (Brydges et al., 2021), and the collapse of the global supply chain has increased the production costs of fashion products, including luxury fashion items (Pang et al., 2022) and force luxury fashion industry to adjust their current practices and make changes to navigate their future (Zhao and Kim, 2021). This has also affected the sentiments of Chinese consumers. The volume of luxury items purchased decreased 10%ending a five-year run of exponential growth due to Covid-19-related lockdown (Bain, 2023). The reduction in demand caused by the pandemic has resulted in financial pressure that threatens sustainability initiatives previously (Brydges et al., 2021). In the Post-Pandemic Era, luxury companies that have restarted their operations in China still face multiple problems, such as a labor shortage, shortages of raw materials, and a substantial cost increase in shipping and logistics (D’Arpizio et al., 2020).

Consumers’ habits and priorities for sustainable luxury fashion have also changed (Xu and Nuangjamnong, 2022). Consumers are still afraid of virus-spreading crowds and engage in less face-to-face contact (Fihartini et al., 2021). As lifestyles have changed rapidly to indoor modes, in-store purchases have decreased and the major market channels have switched from offline to online (Xie and Youn, 2020). In 2022, international luxury brands achieved a rapid growth of 31% in online transactions in China in the Post-Pandemic Era, contributing more than half of the market growth (Mak, 2023). Ironically, consumers’ interest in sustainable fashion products, in particular sustainable luxury fashion, has increased since the outbreak of COVID-19 (Vătămănescu et al., 2021). Xu and Nuangjamnong (2022) found there are changes in Second-Hand Clothing-Sharing Consumption Behavior in the Post-Pandemic Era in China.

This study is based on semi-structured interviews, which allows for flexibility and the ability to ask questions outside of the interview guide (Bryman and Bell, 2011). This is carried out by asking questions to understand the perceived sustainable luxury and drivers of purchase intention. Through this process, interview respondents can give direct and deep answers to help better understand motivation and a sense of sustainable luxur y (Yang, 2022). The interviews were conducted both face-to-face and by telephone. The interview time ranged from 19 min to 57 min. This research was conducted from November 19, 2022, to January 15, 2023. Part of the interviewees responded in English although they were all Chinese while most participants chose to speak Mandarin when they were unable to express their opinion sufficiently. All the responses were translated into English. Transcriptions were analyzed line by line qualitatively with NVivo Pro 12 software (Yang, 2022).

To ensure the validity and representativeness of the data, theoretical sampling has been performed (Yang, 2022). Since participants should be able to discuss the luxury purchasing experiences in detail and their perceptions of sustainable development in luxury fashion, only consumers who have purchased luxury fashion products within 2 years were invited to this study (Yang, 2022). A total of 40 usable interviews with Chinese middle and higher class whose household earning is above 160,000 (McKinsey, 2023) were completed per the requirements of theoretical sampling. Thirty-four effective interviews were obtained after the interviews’ assortation, while 6 interviews were excluded due to unsatisfactory quality (Table 1).

Results show that the proportion of males and females was half-half (50%). The age 21–25 was the greatest at 50% followed by age 31–35 years old (20.6%) and 26–30 years old (14.7%). All the respondents were undergraduate (44.1%) and postgraduate or above (55.9%), indicating the high level of education of respondents. Apart from the general demographic characteristics, this study, following Qu et al. (2015)‘s methods, added lifestyles to categorize Chinese consumers (sustainable consumers, potential sustainable consumers, and unsustainable consumers) based on their values and attitudes toward sustainable consumption.

Grounded theory conclusions can only be reached when the data is saturated and sufficient theory has emerged (Cao et al., 2019). The remaining seven interview materials were left to determine whether the theoretical model achieved theoretical saturation by using Nvivo 12 software. If new data or information appears, it would be added to the data pool before the coding process. When the data or information is saturated and enough theory is obtained, the test is passed, and the theory is stable (Aldiabat and Le Navenec, 2018). After the theoretical saturation test, there is no new category other than uniqueness value, hedonic value, social value, functional value, and sustainable value, which indicates the determinants of sustainable luxury purchase have been fully explored. Therefore, it can be concluded that the four factors determine consumers’ luxury purchase intention on sustainable fashion products (Yang, 2022).

According to the results of data analysis, most consumers are egoistic: they buy luxury products only for their own happiness and ignore the effects on the environment (Yang, 2022). ‘Quality, the need for uniqueness, the degree of preference, or hedonism came first; the last thing I consider is eco-friendly even though I am an environmentalist because I pay too much money on luxury goods (I8) (Yang, 2022).

All the interviewees express that the luxury fashion products they buy must be different from others and this is seen as a ‘Need for Uniqueness’ (Snyder and Fromkin, 1977; Tian et al., 2001). ‘Sustainable features might increase my satisfaction after purchasing, but what I care about most is whether the product can make me different’ (I9). Consumer’s uniqueness value is ‘an individual’s pursuit of differentness relative to others that is achieved through the acquisition, utilization, and disposition of consumer goods for the purpose of developing and enhancing one’s personal and social identity’ (Tian et al., 2001, p.50). It contains three characteristics, namely ‘avoidance of similarity,’ ‘creative choice,’ and ‘unpopular choice’ (Miremadi et al., 2011). For example, ‘I do not like to follow others’ choices; if other people around me buy (Lascu and Zinkhan, 1999) an LV handbag, I would definitely not choose the same one even though I like it’ (I27). ‘If the sustainable luxury products have a creative design, for example adding personalized components, I may buy it’(I17). ‘I would like to choose the novel/unpopular products that are usually not viewed as favorable by many others’ (I19) (Yang, 2022).

Natural materials may lead to unique designs and individuality, which can match the costs of sustainable fashion with increased perception of value (Lundblad and Davies, 2016). Therefore, the luxury marketers should personalize the luxury fashion products and incorporate the brands’ corporate social responsibility initiatives by using sustainable materials to match one’s personal style (Kim et al., 2016).

Social value affects sustainable luxury purchase intention (Jain, 2019b). Many researchers have explored how social value plays an important role in shaping consumers’ purchase intention especially when products are seen as luxury goods (Amaldoss and Jain, 2008). Face culture has a great influence on Chinese consumers’ consumption values due to the social prestige need which can generate a bandwagon effect (Jap, 2010). Similarly, this study further supported this view (Yang, 2022). ‘I think we buy luxury items not because of the products themselves, but due to the Me-tooism. Friends around me always buy new luxury fashion…shoes for example; I think if I get the limited edition, I will show off. Face comes first when I make luxury decisions; then followed by the need to get recognized by others’ (I5) (Yang, 2022). Another factor is seen as social identity, which is defined as ‘a perception of oneness with a group of persons’ and ‘social identification stems from the categorization of individuals, the distinctiveness and prestige of the group’(Ashforth and Mael, 1989) (p20). ‘Clothes make the man. If a man wears luxury clothes, it may feel different’ (I21). ‘I was addicted to luxury products for a short time in the past. At that time, I believed that would be a package for me and I wanna be that kind of person. I sometimes search for key words like ‘how to be an exquisite girl’ and influenced by others recommendations about luxury branded fashion products’ (I3) (Yang, 2022).

Activating status motives led people to choose green products, especially when shopping in public (Griskevicius et al., 2010). Young consumers’ green purchasing intentions are positively influenced by social and emotional values (Awuni and Du, 2016). ‘If a green consumer buys sustainable products including luxury ones, it may increase the social identity around the green friend circle’ (I8) (Yang, 2022).

Consumers purchased sustainable luxury fashion products because they are self-benefit, and well-being can be incorporated with sustainability in this respect (Henninger et al., 2017). Respondents show strong purchase intention for healthy products, and they would like to pay more money for healthy goods especially in the Post-Pandemic Era. ‘Health is very important. I have heard about a piece of news about a bracelet which is made from poisonous chemical materials; if a child unintentionally eats a bead from it, the child may die’ (I4). ‘I think clothes made from natural material would be comfortable and healthy to use’ (I20). Similarly, consumers would like to pay more for healthy products if they know the effect. ‘I would like to pay twice the price on luxury cosmetics only due to the natural and healthy original materials’ (I10) (Yang, 2022).

Consumers’ sustainable value is linked to their lifestyles. Respondents in this study hold significantly different attitudes toward sustainable luxury products as they have various lifestyles in terms of sustainable development (Yang, 2022). This study adopted Qu et al. (2015)‘s classification method according to consumers’ values and attitude toward sustainable consumption, which divided consumers into three groups: sustainable (Group 1), potential sustainable (Group 2) and unsustainable consumers (Group 3). Group 1 consumers are those who highly care about the environment, and protecting the environment is part of their lifestyle; therefore, they would like to engage in sustainable consumption, hoping to help reach a balance between human beings and nature (Yang, 2022). They are against unsustainable behavior and would like to actively take part in sustainable consumption. ‘When I use a tissue, I would tear it up into three pieces to use. I would turn off the light when not needed. I would try my best to save energy’(I8) (Yang, 2022). These consumers would like to buy sustainable alternatives although the price would be higher than normal luxury products.

Most respondents are in the group 2 spectrum while a few are highly sustainable consumers (Table 4). Group 2 sees sustainable consumption as positive behavior to protect the environment and they believe people should conduct sustainable consumption, but they are very sensitive to the price of products and only would like to insist green purchasing when the government provided rewards (Qu et al., 2015). Additionally, green marketing would to some extent impact their consumption behavior if some external incentives are provided. According to the survey, the majority of the respondents are belonging to Group 2, which means that Chinese consumers (Yang, 2022).

Even though some luxury consumers are well educated and know the importance of sustainable development, there are still a few consumers who are unsustainable consumers (I5, I14, I21). Group 3 is not aware of what sustainable consumption behavior is and what sustainable consumption is about (Yang, 2022, p. 128). They are sensitive to product prices, indicating if green product prices are more expensive than that of the corresponding products, they would not buy them. Meanwhile, they are not concerned about the product quality or the product packaging. They seldom use reusable substances, and they do not care about the result of their consumption behavior. They also would not want to understand the government policies on sustainable consumption. ‘Marketing campaign would have no effect on my purchase behavior; the impression is just like it’s a big company and that is what the brand should do, but I will buy my own way’ (I21) (Yang, 2022).

Sustainable luxury consumers are willing to buy sustainable luxury products with 10–20% higher prices rather than normal luxury goods. ‘The way that fast fashion industry produce is wasteful and excessive consumption is harmful for the environment (I20). What should be noted is their choices depend on the product categories. For instance, for secondhand luxury products, most respondents would not buy secondhand clothes as they mentioned they are ‘neat freaks’ ‘Secondhand handbags are acceptable as some collections are hard to find in luxury retailers (I34)’. By contrast, self-directed people are independent and not likely to be influenced by social norms. The priority of motivation comes from their preference instead of sustainable values.

By contrast, a luxury brand’s sustainable initiatives may also attract consumers, especially those who identify themselves as sustainable consumers, as sustainable luxury fashion allow them to better express their self-identity (Osburg et al., 2021). As for the majority of potential sustainable consumers, they might not represent sustainable choice as their priority, although studies show ethical and sustainable criteria are important to luxury consumers (Janssen et al., 2013; Osburg et al., 2021).