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<front>
<journal-meta>
<journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">Front. Mar. Sci.</journal-id>
<journal-title>Frontiers in Marine Science</journal-title>
<abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="pubmed">Front. Mar. Sci.</abbrev-journal-title>
<issn pub-type="epub">2296-7745</issn>
<publisher>
<publisher-name>Frontiers Media S.A.</publisher-name>
</publisher>
</journal-meta>
<article-meta>
<article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.3389/fmars.2022.866874</article-id>
<article-categories>
<subj-group subj-group-type="heading">
<subject>Marine Science</subject>
<subj-group>
<subject>Original Research</subject>
</subj-group>
</subj-group>
</article-categories>
<title-group>
<article-title>Extreme Value Analysis of Ocean Currents in the Mexican Caribbean Based on HYCOM Numerical Model Data</article-title>
</title-group>
<contrib-group>
<contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes">
<name>
<surname>Ring</surname><given-names>Michael</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="author-notes" rid="fn001"><sup>*</sup></xref>
<uri xlink:href="https://loop.frontiersin.org/people/1630626"/>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Rodr&#xed;guez-Ocampo</surname><given-names>Paola Elizabeth</given-names>
</name>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author">
<name>
<surname>Silva</surname><given-names>Rodolfo</given-names>
</name>
<uri xlink:href="https://loop.frontiersin.org/people/666995"/>
</contrib>
<contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes">
<name>
<surname>Mendoza</surname><given-names>Edgar</given-names>
</name>
<xref ref-type="author-notes" rid="fn001"><sup>*</sup></xref>
<uri xlink:href="https://loop.frontiersin.org/people/1230931"/>
</contrib>
</contrib-group>
<aff id="aff1"><institution>Institute of Engineering, National Autonomous University of Mexico</institution>, <addr-line>Mexico City</addr-line>, <country>Mexico</country></aff>
<author-notes>
<fn fn-type="edited-by">
<p>Edited by: Alvise Benetazzo, Institute of Marine Science (CNR), Italy</p>
</fn>
<fn fn-type="edited-by">
<p>Reviewed by: Oyvind Breivik, Norwegian Meteorological Institute, Norway; Antonio Ricchi, University of L&#x2019;Aquila, Italy</p>
</fn>
<fn fn-type="corresp" id="fn001">
<p>*Correspondence: Edgar Mendoza, <email xlink:href="mailto:EMendozaB@iingen.unam.mx">EMendozaB@iingen.unam.mx</email>; Michael Ring, <email xlink:href="mailto:MRing@iingen.unam.mx">MRing@iingen.unam.mx</email>
</p>
</fn>
<fn fn-type="other" id="fn002">
<p>This article was submitted to Physical Oceanography, a section of the journal Frontiers in Marine Science</p>
</fn>
</author-notes>
<pub-date pub-type="epub">
<day>13</day>
<month>06</month>
<year>2022</year>
</pub-date>
<pub-date pub-type="collection">
<year>2022</year>
</pub-date>
<volume>9</volume>
<elocation-id>866874</elocation-id>
<history>
<date date-type="received">
<day>31</day>
<month>01</month>
<year>2022</year>
</date>
<date date-type="accepted">
<day>25</day>
<month>04</month>
<year>2022</year>
</date>
</history>
<permissions>
<copyright-statement>Copyright &#xa9; 2022 Ring, Rodr&#xed;guez-Ocampo, Silva and Mendoza</copyright-statement>
<copyright-year>2022</copyright-year>
<copyright-holder>Ring, Rodr&#xed;guez-Ocampo, Silva and Mendoza</copyright-holder>
<license xlink:href="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">
<p>This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) and the copyright owner(s) are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.</p>
</license>
</permissions>
<abstract>
<p>Comprehensive knowledge of extreme values is required for designing offshore structures and ocean current turbines. However, data on the return levels of ocean currents are rarely available. This is the case for the Mexican Caribbean, where enormous energy potential in the ocean currents has recently been detected. In this study, long-term numerical data from the Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model for a depth of 50m was adjusted <italic>via</italic> linear quantile regression to short-term empirical data for a depth of 49m. The error of the results was estimated using simplified extreme value analysis. Based on the numerical data, a comprehensive extreme value analysis was conducted using the peaks over threshold method and fitting a Generalized Pareto Distribution to the data. This method relies on filtering peaks with a moving time window and an automated threshold selection based on a reparameterised scale parameter of the Generalized Pareto Distribution. The adjusted numerical model is shown to underestimate the empirical data with the error converging to almost 22% for rare events (return period &gt; 10years). The method showed consistent results in the domain, with some anomalies only at the boundaries of the underlying numerical model. The methodology is suitable for estimating the return levels of ocean currents provided by HYCOM, although further research is needed to reduce the error of the numerical model.</p>
</abstract>
<kwd-group>
<kwd>ocean current</kwd>
<kwd>return level</kwd>
<kwd>extreme value analysis</kwd>
<kwd>peaks over threshold</kwd>
<kwd>generalized pareto distribution</kwd>
<kwd>Caribbean Sea</kwd>
<kwd>HYCOM</kwd>
</kwd-group>
<counts>
<fig-count count="13"/>
<table-count count="1"/>
<equation-count count="13"/>
<ref-count count="37"/>
<page-count count="15"/>
<word-count count="6752"/>
</counts>
</article-meta>
</front>
<body>
<sec id="s1">
<title>1 Introduction</title>
<p>In recent years, many projects have sought to harvest ocean energy from tidal currents. For instance, in early 2021, Sustainable Marine launched the <italic>Pempa&#x2019;q Instream Tidal Energy</italic> project to harvest the tidal energy, using a 420 kW PLAT-I 6.4 platform, in the Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia, Canada (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B32">Sustainable Marine, 2021</xref>). Similarly, Orbital Marine Power launched their O2 platform in the north of Scotland, UK. This platform has two turbines each with a diameter of 20m and a rated power of 1 MW (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B25">Orbital Marine Power Ltd, 2021</xref>). The successful deployment of platforms for such technologies requires currents that are typically avoided by other industries because they are too intensive. These technologies require currents that are often too strong to be harnessed for other uses. Consequently, there is limited knowledge about the exact environmental conditions near the currents.</p>
<p>
<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B12">Fan et&#xa0;al. (2010)</xref> studied the currents obtained from the Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model (HYCOM) in the Gulf of Mexico, and compared them against field measurements for the same area. Their results show inconsistencies for low-frequency motions, such as eddies, in the numerical model. The model also tends to overestimate deeper currents during loop current eddy events. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B7">Cetina et&#xa0;al. (2006)</xref> studied current circulation in the same area, finding that the direction of the currents may reverse for several weeks, mainly due to passing eddies within the main current stream, near Chinchorro Bank, south of Cozumel Island, in the Caribbean Sea. Other studies on subinertial flows have been carried out using short-term measurements, to characterize the currents at this site (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B8">Ch&#xe1;vez et&#xa0;al., 2003</xref>), the fluctuations of the current (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B23">Ochoa et&#xa0;al., 2005</xref>), and their variability (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B1">Abascal et&#xa0;al., 2003</xref>). The strong correlation between the flow through the Cozumel Channel and that at the centre of the Yucatan Channel was found by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B3">Athie et&#xa0;al. (2011)</xref>, who compared simultaneous measurements in both channels over 8 months in 2000 and 2001. The tidal currents in the Yucatan Channel, which separates the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula and the west coast of Cuba, were studied by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B6">Carrillo Gonz&#xe1;lez et&#xa0;al. (2007)</xref>. From their measurements, they found that the amplitude of the diurnal components of the tide is about ten times greater than the semi-diurnal components.</p>
<p>In relation to the modelling and characterisation of currents several relevant researches have been published. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B16">Jonathan and Ewans (2013)</xref> reviewed the behaviour of extreme value modelling for the characterization of ocean environments for the design of marine structures. They summarized basic concepts and modelling with covariates and multivariates. Extreme ocean currents in the north west Atlantic were analysed by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B24">Oliver et&#xa0;al. (2012)</xref>, based on numerical data, using a Monte-Carlo simulation for the integration of tidal and non tidal currents. Standard statistical methods for extreme values were extended to handle the temporal dependence, directionality, and tidal non-stationarity of ocean current extremes, by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B28">Robinson and Tawn (1997)</xref>. They found that the tidal current and directionality in non-extreme surge currents explain the strong directionality in the speed of extreme ocean currents. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B11">Devis-Morales et&#xa0;al. (2017)</xref> analysed extreme wind and wave events in the Caribbean, applying the block model, peaks over threshold (POT) method, and the individual storms method, to obtain estimates of extreme values for the Colombian Caribbean coast.</p>
<p>
<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B20">Moeini et&#xa0;al. (2010)</xref> compared the quality of two sources of surface winds for wave modelling in the Persian Gulf. They used measurements of the wind and wind data generated by the climatological model of the <italic>European Center for Medium Range Weather Forecasts</italic> as data input for the wave model. The waves were simulated with the SWAN model (for <italic>Simulating Waves Nearshore</italic>) and compared to empirical wave data measured 20&#xa0;km away from the meteorological station which recorded the wind data. They performed extreme value analysis (EVA) based on the measured and modelled wave data and found that the wave data generated with the empirical wind data matched the empirical wave data much better than the wave data generated with the modelled wind. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B22">Niroomandi et&#xa0;al. (2018)</xref> simulated waves in Chesapeake Bay and validated the results with measurements. They performed an EVA comparing generalized extreme value function and Generalized Pareto Distribution (GPD). They also studied the effect of key parameters, including threshold value, time span and data length on the design wave heights. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B26">Park et&#xa0;al. (2020)</xref> used EVA to obtain the return levels for wave, wind and currents for the Barents Sea. Their analysis is based on hindcast data generated with the <italic>Global Reanalysis of Ocean Waves 2012</italic> model. They based their EVA on the Gumbel distribution, and the 2- and 3-parameter Weibull distribution and ultimately suggest using the Weibull distribution for the wind speed and current speed. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B36">Viselli et&#xa0;al. (2015)</xref> calculated extreme wind and waves in the Gulf of Maine, USA, by applying the POT method with short block lengths of 4 to 8 days to ensure the peaks were independent. For each block, only the maximum peak was selected, which also had to be over half a block length after the previously selected peak. This method was adapted from <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B30">Simiu (2011)</xref> and aims to avoid serially related peaks. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B19">Liu et&#xa0;al. (2018)</xref> used the average conditional exceedance rate method to estimate extreme current speeds with multi-year return periods, based on data obtained from a platform in the South China Sea. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B5">Bore et&#xa0;al. (2019)</xref> used a marginal model to determine the statistical extremes of current speed, by evaluating the signal in deterministic and stochastic components. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B27">Qi and Shi (2009)</xref> used the three-parameter Weibull distribution to estimate the distribution of extreme winds, waves, and currents, using data from 30-year hindcasts to which the Weibull distribution was fitted.</p>
<p>
<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B33">Thompson et&#xa0;al. (2009)</xref> introduced a methodology for automatic threshold selection based on statistical parameters as described in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B9">Coles (2001)</xref>. Their method was applied to extreme wave height by increasing the threshold from the 50<sup>th</sup> percentile upward, until a specific condition was satisfied. Similarly, <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B31">Solari et&#xa0;al. (2017)</xref> presented a methodology for automatic threshold selection, defining possible thresholds by a list of peaks within a moving time window. The parameters of a GPD are calculated for each set of peaks, defined by threshold and the moving time window. For each GPD the p-value was estimated employing the right-tail weighted Anderson-Darling test. The threshold, which minimizes one minus the p-value for the specific threshold, was selected while its uncertainty is estimated using the bootstrap technique. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B18">Liang et&#xa0;al. (2019)</xref> selected possible thresholds which are uniformly distributed in the upper half of the data. For each threshold, a GPD is fitted to the data, and the differences in return periods values with increasing thresholds are plotted. A stable region for the return period with an increasing threshold indicates independence from the threshold, and the lower bound of the area is selected as the final threshold. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B10">Coles and Simiu (2003)</xref> proposed the use of resampling schemes to measure uncertainties caused by the relatively short length of the numerical data of hurricane extreme values. They adapted a bootstrap method and used empirical corrections to adjust the bias in the distributions obtained. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B21">Morton and Bowers (1996)</xref> studied the multivariate point process model in extreme value analyses. As an example, they used a moored semi-submersible and its response to wind and waves (i.e., bivariate analysis) and estimated the 50-year mooring force and return period contours for a 50-year combined wind-wave condition.</p>
<p>The Cozumel Channel in the Mexican Caribbean Sea has significant potential for the harnessing of ocean currents (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B14">Hern&#xe1;ndez-Fontes et&#xa0;al., 2019</xref>; <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B4">B&#xe1;rcenas Graniel et&#xa0;al., 2021</xref>). The predominant current direction is in north east direction, especially for the higher current speeds. Since the currents in this region are mainly caused by global ocean currents, the direction rarely changes (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B2">Alc&#xe9;rreca-Huerta et&#xa0;al., 2019</xref>). When it does, it is usually caused by eddies within the ocean current that result in a relatively low flow in the opposite direction. South east of Cozumel Island the mean current speed was determined to be 0.9ms<sup>-1</sup> with a standard deviation of 0.2ms<sup>-1</sup>. In the wake of the Cozumel Channel the mean current speed was measured as 1.3ms<sup>&#x2212;1</sup> with a standard deviation of 0.3ms<sup>&#x2212;1</sup> (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B7">Cetina et&#xa0;al., 2006</xref>). The oceanic climate, the biodiversity and intensive tourism are the main reason why this region is unattractive for conventional marine structures, however it is an area with great potential for harvesting energy from ocean currents.</p>
<p>Long-term data, for at least 20 years (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B11">Devis-Morales et&#xa0;al., 2017</xref>) are necessary to correctly design offshore structures that take into consideration extreme events. The current measurements are available for a depth of 49m in the Cozumel Channel, but empirical data covers less than two years. On the other hand, simulated data of high spatial resolution are available for the current in the Cozumel Channel, although the degree of error with respect to the real current in this region is not known. This paper is based on measurements from the Canek project 2009/2010 in the Channel of Cozumel. It addresses such shortcomings by comparing and adjusting the simulated data with empirical data, and subsequently performing an EVA on the numerical data. The analysis was applied to the northern part of the Mexican Caribbean, marked in red in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f1"><bold>Figure&#xa0;1</bold></xref>. The study area extends from the south of Cozumel Island to <italic>Cabo Catoche</italic>, north of Canc&#xfa;n, and to the east of the continental shelf. Although the numerical model overestimates the current, the EVA results are expected to give valuable predictions for extreme currents.</p>
<fig id="f1" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;1</label>
<caption>
<p><bold>(A)</bold> Study area within the Mexican Caribbean and <bold>(B)</bold> position of the acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP).</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g001.tif"/>
</fig>
</sec>
<sec id="s2" sec-type="materials|methods">
<title>2 Materials and Methods</title>
<sec id="s2_1">
<title>2.1 Data Sources</title>
<p>Empirical and numerical data were used for the theoretical analysis presented here. Both sources provide data on the eastward and northward components of the ocean currents in the study area for different depths and different temporal resolutions. The Canek project, which has carried out similar measurements in the past (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B8">Ch&#xe1;vez et&#xa0;al., 2003</xref>), was responsible for the measurements of the current in the Cozumel Channel. The Canek research project, also known as the <italic>Estudio de la circulaci&#xf3;n y elintercambio a trav&#xe9;s del Canal de Yucat&#xe1;n</italic> (Study of circulation and exchange through the Yucatan Canal) has been coordinated by the <italic>Centro de Investigaci&#xf3;n Cient&#xed;fica y Educaci&#xf3;n Superior de Ensenada</italic> since its foundation in 1996. The data were obtained using a stationary, long-range acoustic Doppler current profiler at N20&#xb0;32.218&#x2032; W087&#xb0;02.738&#x2032; [see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f1"><bold>Figure&#xa0;1B</bold></xref>] anchored at a depth of approximately 400m, and measuring every half hour, from 9<sup>th</sup> April 2009 to 14<sup>th</sup> May 2011. The data on depth were recorded in 16 cells, with the shallowest cell at a depth of 49m. For the numerical data, the HYCOM was chosen because of its good temporal range and resolution, and excellent spatial resolution, compared to other products. In this study, the data of the reanalysis model HYCOM + NCODA GOMu0.04 experiment 50.1 are used, which are publicly available in <uri xlink:href="https://www.hycom.org/data/gomu0pt04/expt-50pt1">https://www.hycom.org/data/gomu0pt04/expt-50pt1</uri>. The model provides the current components at 40 depths for the Mexican Caribbean (among other regions), covering 1<sup>st</sup> January 1993 to 31<sup>st</sup> December 2012, at a temporal resolution of three hours and a spatial resolution of 0.04 in both eastern and northern directions. Numerical current data are reported at a depth of 50m while the empirical data describe the current at 49m.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s2_2">
<title>2.2 Validating and Adjusting Numerical Data With Empirical Data</title>
<p>Interpolation of HYCOM data to match the Canek data was carried out using the griddata function, available in the <italic>SciPy</italic>-module (version 1.6.1) for Python 3 (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B35">Virtanen et&#xa0;al., 2020</xref>). The four nodes of the numerical model were used as input, which surround the location of the measured field data. Due to the different sampling frequencies of the data sources, the data with higher frequency (i.e., the empirical data) had to be reduced. The data provided by the Canek project were sampled every 30&#xa0;min and every hour, depending on the date. As the HYCOM numerical data reports the instantaneous value every three-hours, the empirical data were reduced by discarding every time step which is not available in the numerical data.</p>
<p>A linear quantile regression was performed on the current speed, using the quantreg model, as provided by the <italic>statsmodels</italic> module (version 0.12.2) for Python 3 (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B29">Seabold and Perktold, 2010</xref>). The linear regression was estimated for the empirical data proportional to the numerical data with the intercept set to zero.</p>
<p>To estimate the error produced by the numerical data, a simplified EVA was performed for both data sets, the empirical data in its original form and the numerical data in its adjusted form but reduced to the temporal range of the empirical data set. The analysis is described in detail in section 2.3. However, due to the low number of observations available in both sets, the methodology had to be modified. As a threshold, the 0.5<sup>th</sup>-quantile was used in contrast to the suggested automated threshold selection. However, the same range of possible thresholds was used to estimate the confidence interval. The (signed) relative error between empirical and numerical data is defined as</p>
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<p>where <italic>u<sub>e</sub>
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</italic> is the speed as predicted by the numerical model. Besides the mentioned modules for Python 3 (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B34">Van Rossum and Drake, 2009</xref>), substantial parts of the data processing have been carried out with the NumPy-module in version 1.20.1 (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B13">Harris et&#xa0;al., 2020</xref>) and the pandas-module in version 1.2.2 (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B37">Wes McKinney, 2010</xref>).</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s2_3">
<title>2.3 Extreme Return Levels With Peaks Over Threshold</title>
<p>The methodology used assumes that for a random variable (<italic>x</italic>) the excess over a suitable threshold (<italic>u</italic>) can be modelled by a GPD. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B18">Liang et&#xa0;al. (2019)</xref> define the cumulative density function of the GPD as</p>
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<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mtext>with</mml:mtext>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>x</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2265;</mml:mo>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>Where <bold><italic>x</italic>
</bold> represents the random variable, <bold><italic>u</italic>
</bold> the threshold, <italic>&#x3be;</italic> the shape parameter, and &#x3c3; the scale parameter.</p>
<p>The procedure can be summarized as follows, where the automated threshold selection method is based on the work of <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B33">Thompson et&#xa0;al. (2009)</xref>:</p>
<list list-type="simple">
<list-item>
<p>1. Selection of peaks using a moving time window.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>2. Detection and filtering of outliers using the quartile method.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>3. Identification of potential thresholds between the 25<sup>th</sup> and 98<sup>th</sup> percentiles, or the 100<sup>th</sup> highest peak, whichever is less.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>4. For each potential threshold <italic>u<sub>j</sub>
</italic>:</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>(a) Fit a GPD through all peaks for which <italic>x<sub>i</sub>
</italic> &gt; <italic>u<sub>j</sub>
</italic>.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>(b) Determine a reparameterised scale parameter <inline-formula>
<mml:math display="inline" id="im1">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>i</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</inline-formula> and its difference <inline-formula>
<mml:math display="inline" id="im2">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x394;</mml:mi>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>i</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</inline-formula> tothe next higher threshold (<italic>u<sub>j</sub>
</italic>+1).</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>(c) Fit the normal distribution with zero mean through the difference of the reparameterised scale parameter corresponding to the current and all greater thresholds <inline-formula>
<mml:math display="inline" id="im3">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x394;</mml:mi>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>i</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>|</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>i</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>&#x2265;</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</inline-formula>.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>5. Selection of the lowest threshold for which the p-value of the normal distribution through the difference of the reparameterised scale parameter is greater than a significance level of 5%.</p>
</list-item>
<list-item>
<p>6. Estimation of the return levels based on the selected threshold.</p>
</list-item>
</list>
<p>To consider the phenomenon as random, the realization of each variable should be independent. However, with the temporal resolution provided, the data analysed in this study is not random. To select only values independent of temporally close values (later called <italic>peaks</italic>), a moving time window was used, as suggested in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B31">Solari et&#xa0;al. (2017)</xref>. The time window is of fixed length, depending on the variable type, and moves consecutively through the time series. If the value in the centre of the time window is the maximum of that time window, this value is selected as an independent peak.</p>
<p>Outliers may be present in the set of selected peaks, which would alter the final excess model. For the automated and semi-automated detection of outliers, a great variety of methods are available (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B15">Hodge and Austin, 2004</xref>). One of the simplest methods suitable for univariate data is based on quartiles and presented in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B17">Laurikkala et&#xa0;al. (2000)</xref>. The authors define an upper (<italic>u<sub>u</sub>
</italic>) and lower threshold (<italic>u<sub>l</sub>
</italic>), beyond which all peaks are considered as outliers and are consequently discarded. Both thresholds are defined by</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(3)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M3">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>l</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>1.5</mml:mn>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>3</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<disp-formula>
<label>(4)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M4">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>3</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>+</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>1.5</mml:mn>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>3</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>q</mml:mi>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>where <italic>q</italic><sub>1</sub> is the first quartile (25<sup>th</sup> percentile) and <italic>q</italic><sub>3</sub> is the third quartile (75<sup>th</sup> percentile).</p>
<p>From the previously selected peaks, potential thresholds are selected, as suggested in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B33">Thompson et&#xa0;al. (2009)</xref>. The potential thresholds are equally spaced between 25<sup>th</sup> and 98<sup>th</sup> percentile. If less than 100 peaks are found above the 98<sup>th</sup> percentile, the 100<sup>th</sup> largest peak is selected as the upper limit of the range for potential thresholds.</p>
<p>For each threshold, all peaks <italic>x<sub>i</sub>
</italic> &gt; <italic>u<sub>j</sub>
</italic> are selected, and a GPD is fitted through those peaks. The shape (<italic>&#x3be;<sub>j</sub>
</italic>) and scale (<italic>&#x3c3;<sub>j</sub>
</italic>) parameters of the GPD are determined by the function genpareto.fit, which is part of the SciPy.stats-package. The location parameter is held fixed to the corresponding threshold <italic>u</italic>. The reparameterised scale parameter, which is defined by</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(5)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M5">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mtext>&#x2009;</mml:mtext>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>should be constant above a suitable threshold, following <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B9">Coles (2001)</xref>. This relationship was extended by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B33">Thompson et&#xa0;al. (2009)</xref> by fitting a normal distribution with a mean of zero through the difference of the reparameterised scale parameter for the current and all greater thresholds. This difference is defined by</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(6)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M6">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x394;</mml:mi>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>+</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>j</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2217;</mml:mo>
</mml:msubsup>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>.</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>The first threshold for which the corresponding normal distribution has a p-value &#x2265; 0.05 is selected for calculating the return levels. As a test for normality, the Kolmogorov-Smirnov test is used, as implemented in the ks_1samp function of the SciPy.stats-package. The return level <italic>X<sub>m</sub>
</italic> (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B9">Coles, 2001</xref>) can be calculated as</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(7)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M7">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>x</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>m</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>{</mml:mo> <mml:mrow>
<mml:mtable columnalign="left">
<mml:mtr columnalign="left">
<mml:mtd columnalign="left">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>+</mml:mo>
<mml:mfrac>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
</mml:mfrac>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msup>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>m</mml:mi>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
</mml:msup>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd columnalign="left">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>for</mml:mtext>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>&#x2260;</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
</mml:mtr>
<mml:mtr columnalign="left">
<mml:mtd columnalign="left">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>+</mml:mo>
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mtext>log&#xa0;</mml:mtext>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>m</mml:mi>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd columnalign="left">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>for</mml:mtext>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
</mml:mtr>
</mml:mtable>
</mml:mrow> </mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>.</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>The average number of peaks <italic>m</italic> during a return period (<italic>T<sub>B</sub>
</italic>) is defined by</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(8)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M8">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>m</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mfrac>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>n</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>p</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>n</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>y</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mfrac>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>T</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>B</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>where <italic>n<sub>p</sub>
</italic> is the total number of peaks and <italic>n<sub>y</sub>
</italic> the number of years for which data is available.</p>
<p>The exceedance probability of threshold <inline-formula>
<mml:math display="inline" id="im4">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</inline-formula>, the complete Variance-Covariance Matrix <italic>V</italic> and the variance of return level <inline-formula>
<mml:math display="inline" id="im5">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>Var</mml:mtext>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>x</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mi>m</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</inline-formula> are estimated, as stated in the following equations (<xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B9">Coles, 2001</xref>), where the values with a hat indicate the estimation of the corresponding value.</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(9)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M9">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mfrac>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>n</mml:mi>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>p</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>o</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>t</mml:mi>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>n</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>p</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mfrac>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>&#x2009;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:math>
</disp-formula>
<p>where <italic>n<sub>pot</sub>
</italic> is the number of peaks over threshold</p>
<disp-formula>
<label>(10)</label>
<mml:math display="block" id="M10">
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mi>V</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>=</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>[</mml:mo> <mml:mrow>
<mml:mtable>
<mml:mtr>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mfrac>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mi>n</mml:mi>
<mml:mi>p</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mfrac>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>(</mml:mo>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mn>1</mml:mn>
<mml:mo>&#x2212;</mml:mo>
<mml:msub>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3b6;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mi>u</mml:mi>
</mml:msub>
</mml:mrow>
<mml:mo>)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mtd>
</mml:mtr>
<mml:mtr>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>Var&#xa0;</mml:mtext>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">(</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>Cov&#xa0;</mml:mtext>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">(</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
</mml:mtr>
<mml:mtr>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mn>0</mml:mn>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>Cov&#xa0;</mml:mtext>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">(</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mo>,</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3c3;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">)</mml:mo>
</mml:mrow>
</mml:mtd>
<mml:mtd>
<mml:mrow>
<mml:mtext>Var&#xa0;</mml:mtext>
<mml:mo stretchy="false">(</mml:mo>
<mml:mover accent="true">
<mml:mi>&#x3be;</mml:mi>
<mml:mo>^</mml:mo>
</mml:mover>
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<sec id="s3">
<title>3 Results</title>
<sec id="s3_1">
<title>3.1 Numerical Data Accuracy</title>
<p>The empirical and numerical data used have different temporal resolutions. Therefore, the empirical data from the Canek project were downsampled by discarding all time steps that are unavailable in the data provided by the numerical model. In <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f2"><bold>Figure&#xa0;2</bold></xref> the unadjusted numerical data show a clear bias towards overestimation. The numerical data were adjusted by the linear regression model, which was estimated with a quantile regression using the 0.5<sup>th</sup>-quantile, and is defined by</p>
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<fig id="f2" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;2</label>
<caption>
<p>Adjustment of the HYCOM numerical data to the Canek-project empirical data [from the ADCP shown in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f1"><bold>Figure&#xa0;1 (B)</bold></xref>]. <bold>(A)</bold> Histogram showing the numerical data before and after the adjustment. <bold>(B)</bold> Q-Q plot of numerical data before and after the adjustment. The 0.01<sup>st</sup> 0.5<sup>th</sup> and 0.99<sup>th</sup>-quantiles are marked for both data sets.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g002.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>where <italic>u</italic><sup>&#x2032;</sup><sub><italic>m</italic>
</sub> is the adjusted current speed. The adjusted numerical data reflect the empirical data much better. The effect of the model adjustment is strongly reflected by the mean relative error, that is reduced from &#x2212;0.255 to 0.006. The mean absolute relative error of 0.288 and the root mean squared relative error of 0.365 are reduced to 0.153 and 0.206, respectively. Of greater concern, however, is the missing tail of the probability distribution of both numerical data in Figurs 2A, as these are of great importance for EVAs. Especially in the adjusted data, this leads to a pronounced underestimation of higher current speeds (i.e., rare events) as seen in the deviation from the diagonal in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f2"><bold>Figure&#xa0;2B</bold></xref>.</p>
<p>To quantify the effect of the missing tail on the extreme value estimations, a simplified EVA was performed. Due to the short time range, the length of the time window was reduced to 7 days (i.e., 56 observations). Additionally, the 0.5<sup>th</sup>-quantile was selected as the threshold rather than the proposed automated threshold selection. As expected from the results presented in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f2"><bold>Figure&#xa0;2B</bold></xref>, the adjusted numerical model shows an underestimation of extreme values, as can be seen in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f3"><bold>Figure&#xa0;3A</bold></xref>. Nevertheless, for rare events (return period &gt; 10 years) the relative error converges to a value just below 0.22 (see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f3"><bold>Figure&#xa0;3B</bold></xref>). The large 95% confidence interval (CI<sub>95%</sub>) in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f3"><bold>Figure&#xa0;3A</bold></xref> is the result of the short temporal coverage of the data used for the analysis. It should be noted that the CI in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f3"><bold>Figure&#xa0;3B</bold></xref> is not CI<sub>95%</sub>; it is the maximum error estimated by the upper and lower bounds of the CI<sub>95%</sub> in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f3"><bold>Figure&#xa0;3A</bold></xref>.</p>
<fig id="f3" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;3</label>
<caption>
<p>Results of the simplified EVA for the adjusted numerical and empirical data. The adjusted numerical data are limited to the temporal range of the empirical data. <bold>(A)</bold> Return level plot. <bold>(B)</bold> Relative error of estimated return levels.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g003.tif"/>
</fig>
</sec>
<sec id="s3_2">
<title>3.2 Extreme Value Analysis</title>
<p>The methodology was applied to several nodes in the Mexican Caribbean, shown as grey dots in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f4"><bold>Figure&#xa0;4</bold></xref>. It should be noted that not every node contains data on the current, as some are on land, or in waters of less than 50m depth. The four nodes marked in red were selected as the results suggest that it is possible to obtain a different behaviour with respect to the GPD fit. The node at position P1 (20.520&#xb0; N, 86.600&#xb0; W) is where the current is most concentrated off the east coast of Cozumel. The node at position P2 (20.640&#xb0; N, 86.960&#xb0; W), is in the Cozumel Channel, near a possible site for the installation of ocean current turbines [see <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B2">Alc&#xe9;rreca-Huerta et&#xa0;al. (2019)</xref>]. That at P3 (21.040&#xb0; N, 86.560&#xb0; W) is in the wake of the Cozumel Channel, off the coast of Cancun, and the node at P4 (21.800&#xb0; N, 86.480&#xb0; W) is in the Yucatan current northeast of Cancun.</p>
<fig id="f4" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;4</label>
<caption>
<p>Location of the nodes for the numerical model which lie within the study area. The nodes marked in red are positions for which more details regarding the GPD fit are presented.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g004.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>To determine the optimal length of the time window, the number of peaks identified in the windows was analysed for the nodes at P1 to P4. In <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f5"><bold>Figure&#xa0;5A</bold></xref>, there is a steady fall in the number of peaks, but it remains above the critical number of 200. At a length of 25 days, the number of peaks for all four nodes is just below 250. The relative difference between the number of peaks and the length of time window (see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f5"><bold>Figure&#xa0;5B</bold></xref>) shows a decreasing trend, as the length of the time window increases. From a 21 day length, the relative difference is less than 10%, dipping briefly below the 5% mark at a length of 23 days. To spread the number of peaks evenly within the time range analysed, and to avoid having too few peaks, a time window of 23 days in length was chosen.</p>
<fig id="f5" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;5</label>
<caption>
<p>Relation between the number of independent peaks and the length of the time window for the nodes at P1 to P4. <bold>(A)</bold> Number of identified peaks. <bold>(B)</bold> Relative difference in number of identified peaks to previous time window length.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g005.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>
<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6</bold></xref> shows the statistical data of the GPD fit for each node. While the north, east, and southern boundaries of the domain are determined by the node selection, the western boundary is a feature of the numerical data generated by HYCOM for this site. The number of identified peaks seems to be similar in the study region (see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6A</bold></xref>), with a slight decrease towards deeper waters.</p>
<fig id="f6" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;6</label>
<caption>
<p>Statistical data for the GPD fit. <bold>(A)</bold> Number of identified peaks. <bold>(B)</bold> Selected thresholds. <bold>(C)</bold> p-value for the selected thresholds. <bold>(D)</bold> Shape factor for GPD fit to POT. <bold>(E)</bold> Scale factor for GPD fit to POT. <bold>(F)</bold> Share of peaks within the CI<sub>95%</sub>.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g006.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>
<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figures&#xa0;6B, C</bold></xref>) show the selected threshold for each node and the corresponding p-value for the automatic threshold selection, respectively. The value of selected thresholds tend to increase in the centre of the channel, and in the stream close to the east coast of Cozumel Island that extends northward, along the Cancun coast. This is expected, since the current becomes more intense at these locations. As it was possible to find a suitable threshold for all nodes with information on the current velocity, the p-value is over 0.05 in significance, although some inconsistencies of above 0.1, and even 0.15, are found throughout the domain.</p>
<p>There is no clear trend in the shape parameter of the fitted GPD in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6D</bold></xref>. However, it was estimated to be negative for all nodes, producing a bounded GPD. For a few nodes at the northwestern boundary, the shape parameter was estimated to be very close to zero. The scale parameter in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6E</bold></xref> indicates a slight increase off Cozumel Island and at the northeastern boundary, which leads to a thicker tail for the GPD in those regions (i.e., increased return levels).</p>
<p>
<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6F</bold></xref> shows the number of peaks above the threshold which lie within the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub>. For nearly all the nodes, the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub> covers 100% of the numerical observations. As is to be expected, not all the observations are within the CI<sub>95%</sub> for all the nodes. However, the number of nodes for which some observations are outside the CI<sub>95%</sub> is small, while the minimum share within the analysed region is still above 90%. Despite this apparent overestimation of the CI<sub>95%</sub>, this suggests that the methodology of GPD fit together with the estimation of the CI<sub>95%</sub> is suitable and the results of the GPD for the given input data is reliable.</p>
<p>Return levels for the selected return periods, on the corresponding lower and upper boundaries of the CI<sub>95%</sub> are shown in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f7"><bold>Figure&#xa0;7</bold></xref>. The expected return level (central column) increases in the channel and the main current, which extends northwards from the east of the Cozumel Island. This trend is further pronounced in the case of the CI<sub>95%</sub> upper boundary (right column of <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f7"><bold>Figure&#xa0;7</bold></xref>), which is in agreement with the results in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figures&#xa0;6B</bold></xref>, <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>E</bold></xref>. The region with higher shape parameters at the northwest edge of the domain (see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6D</bold></xref>) is not noticeable in the estimated return level (centre column in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f7"><bold>Figure&#xa0;7</bold></xref>). However, in case of the CI95%-limits, that region stands out with lower return level for the lower bound of the CI<sub>95%</sub> and higher return levels for the upper limit, suggesting a much higher uncertainty. The distribution over the rest of the domain is as expected, see <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f6"><bold>Figure&#xa0;6</bold></xref>.</p>
<fig id="f7" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;7</label>
<caption>
<p>Return levels for 50m depth for different return periods. All the figures in one row correspond to the same return period; <bold>(A&#x2013;C)</bold> 2 years, <bold>(D&#x2013;F)</bold> 5 years, <bold>(G&#x2013;I)</bold> 10 years, <bold>(J&#x2013;L)</bold> 25 years, and <bold>(M&#x2013;O)</bold> 50 years. The left column shows the lower bound of the CI<sub>95%</sub>, the right column the upper bound of the CI<sub>95%</sub>, and the central column the predicted return level.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g007.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>The parameters for the GPD excess model for the four nodes seen in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f4"><bold>Figure&#xa0;4</bold></xref> are summarized in <xref ref-type="table" rid="T1"><bold>Table&#xa0;1</bold></xref>. Except for the node at position P4, the shape parameters are negative, with all of CI<sub>95%</sub> below zero. Compared to the standard error, the shape parameter at P4 is small, giving a CI<sub>95%</sub> closely centred around zero. However, this result could be due to an error in the numerical model, as mentioned above. The highest scale parameter is found at P1, which produces a thicker tail to the probability distribution. Nevertheless, the bound nature of the excess model (due to the negative shape parameter) prevents high return levels for this node. The number of peaks found for each node is similar, just above the critical threshold of 200. Slightly more than 100 peaks were found above the selected threshold. The number of peaks, and peaks above the threshold, suggests that the selected time span of 20 years is a bit short, but still sufficient to perform the EVA.</p>
<table-wrap id="T1" position="float">
<label>Table&#xa0;1</label>
<caption>
<p>Values for GPD fit for four nodes.</p>
</caption>
<table frame="hsides">
<thead>
<tr>
<th valign="top" align="left"/>
<th valign="top" align="center">Node at P1 </th>
<th valign="top" align="center">Node at P2 </th>
<th valign="top" align="center">Node at P3 </th>
<th valign="top" align="center">Node at P4 </th>
</tr>
</thead>
<tbody>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">Threshold (<italic>u<sub>o</sub>
</italic>) in ms<sup>-1</sup>
</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">1.2397</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">1.3267</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">1.0400</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">1.0784</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">Shape parameter (<italic>&#x3be;</italic>)</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.3965</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.3171</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.3669</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.0839</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">&#x2003;Corresponding</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.480</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.423</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.453</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.280</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left"/>
<td valign="top" align="center">&#x2026;</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">&#x2026;</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">&#x2026;</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">&#x2026;</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left"/>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.313</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.211</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">-0.280</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">0.112</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">Scale parameter (<italic>&#x3c3;</italic>)</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">0.1827</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">0.1501</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">0.1417</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">0.1088</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">Peaks (<italic>n<sub>p</sub>
</italic>)</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">222</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">239</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">242</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">249</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">POT (<italic>n<sub>pot</sub>
</italic>).</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">111</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">114</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">111</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">102</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td valign="top" align="left">POT in CI<sub>95%</sub> of return level</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">100%</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">100%</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">100%</td>
<td valign="top" align="center">100%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</table-wrap>
<p>In <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f8"><bold>Figure&#xa0;8</bold></xref>, the peaks, POT, and the thresholds are shown for the four nodes. None of these nodes have a cluster of peaks (or lack thereof), suggesting that a 23 day time window is sufficient. The distributions of peaks, together with the filtered outliers, are shown for each node in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f9"><bold>Figure&#xa0;9</bold></xref>. The nodes at P1 to P3 show a standard distribution of peaks. The node at P4 has a multi-modal distribution, suggesting an error, and that the conclusions drawn from the data might not be reliable. No outliers at the upper end were found for the node at P2, whereas at P1 and P4 there were one each, and at P3, two. At the lower end, a few outliers were also detected and filtered out, but due to the nature of POT methods, these tend to have no significant effect on the outcome.</p>
<fig id="f8" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;8</label>
<caption>
<p>Distribution of peaks over time for the nodes at P1 to P4, as identified by means of a 23 days moving time window. The peaks under threshold are marked with grey dots, the peaks over threshold with black dots, and the selected threshold by the blue line. <bold>(A)</bold> Node at P1, <bold>(B)</bold> Node at P2, <bold>(C)</bold> Node at P3, and <bold>(D)</bold> Node at P4.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g008.tif"/>
</fig>
<fig id="f9" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;9</label>
<caption>
<p>Detected outliers and distribution of peaks for nodes at P1 to P4. The first and third quartiles are shown as solid lines and the median as a dotted line. The filtered outliers are shown as blue dots and the selected threshold as a thin blue line.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g009.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>
<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f10"><bold>Figures&#xa0;10</bold></xref>&#x2013;<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>13</bold></xref> present the corresponding diagnostic plots for the GPD excess model. For a detailed interpretation of this type of plot, the reader is referred to <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="B9">Coles (2001)</xref>. Despite slight deviations in the diagnostic plot for the node at P1 in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f10"><bold>Figure&#xa0;10</bold></xref>, and especially the q-q plot in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f10"><bold>Figure&#xa0;10B</bold></xref>, 100% of the empirical POT still lie within the CI<sub>95%</sub>, as seen in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f10"><bold>Figure&#xa0;10C</bold></xref> and tab. 1. Both plots suggest an overestimation of the GPD model. There are few peaks, especially visible in the density plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f10"><bold>Figure&#xa0;10D</bold></xref>). However, the bound excess model seems to give a good fit for the underlying numerical data. The diagnostic plots for the node at P2 (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f11"><bold>Figure&#xa0;11</bold></xref>) show some deviations between the numerical data and GPD excess model in the p-p plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f11"><bold>Figure&#xa0;11A</bold></xref>). Around the 0.6 mark, the GPD excess model shows a slight overestimation. This deviation is also visible in the q-q plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f11"><bold>Figure&#xa0;11B</bold></xref>) at speeds of about 1.45ms&#x2212;1 and in the return level-plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f11"><bold>Figure&#xa0;11C</bold></xref>) at the same speeds. Despite these inconsistencies, the GPD excess model is a fits the data well.</p>
<fig id="f10" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;10</label>
<caption>
<p>Diagnostic plot for the GPD excess model fitted to 3-hourly current for the node at P1. <bold>(A)</bold> p-p plot, <bold>(B)</bold> q-q plot, <bold>(C)</bold> return level plot, and <bold>(D)</bold> density plot.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g010.tif"/>
</fig>
<fig id="f11" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;11</label>
<caption>
<p>Diagnostic plot for the GPD excess model fitted to 3-hourly current for the node at P2. <bold>(A)</bold> p-p plot, <bold>(B)</bold> q-q plot, <bold>(C)</bold> return level plot, and <bold>(D)</bold> density plot.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g011.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>The p-p plot presents some discrepancies at the 60% percentile at P3 (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f12"><bold>Figure&#xa0;12A</bold></xref>). The excess model also differs from the numerical data for higher speeds, as seen in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f12"><bold>Figures&#xa0;12B, C</bold></xref>. However, all the observations are within the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub> of the return level, suggesting that the GPD excess model application is reliable.</p>
<fig id="f12" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;12</label>
<caption>
<p>Diagnostic plot for the GPD excess model fitted to 3-hourly current for the node at P3. <bold>(A)</bold> p-p plot, <bold>(B)</bold> q-q plot, <bold>(C)</bold> return level plot, and <bold>(D)</bold> density plot.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g012.tif"/>
</fig>
<p>The plots in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>Figure&#xa0;13</bold></xref> bring into doubt whether this excess model can be used to reliably estimate the extreme values of the node at P4. Although the CI<sub>95%</sub> includes all the numerical observations, the p-p plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>Figure&#xa0;13A</bold></xref>) and especially the q-q plot (<xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>Figure&#xa0;13B</bold></xref>) looks unusual. A slight s-shaped deviation is present, with considerable inconsistencies above 1.2ms<sup>&#x2212;1</sup> in the q-q plot. Additionally, and as observed in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f7"><bold>Figure&#xa0;7</bold></xref>, the CI<sub>95%</sub> in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>Figure&#xa0;13C</bold></xref> is quite large, while the density plot in <xref ref-type="fig" rid="f13"><bold>Figure 13D</bold></xref> shows a reasonable fit to the data.</p>
<fig id="f13" position="float">
<label>Figure&#xa0;13</label>
<caption>
<p>Diagnostic plot for the GPD excess model fitted to 3-hourly current for the node at P4. <bold>(A)</bold> p-p plot, <bold>(B)</bold> q-q plot, <bold>(C)</bold> return level plot, and <bold>(D)</bold> density plot.</p>
</caption>
<graphic mimetype="image" mime-subtype="tiff" xlink:href="fmars-09-866874-g013.tif"/>
</fig>
</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="s4">
<title>4 Discussion</title>
<p>For adjustment of the numerical data, the empirical and numerical data were filtered to match their time steps. The high relative error of -25.5% was reduced to 0.6% by linear quantile regression. However, the mean absolute relative error and the root mean square relative error cannot be reduced in the same way. This indicates that, despite the adjustment, the numerical model is not able to accurately reproduce the behaviour of the current in this region. Furthermore, the lack of the tail in the numerical data histogram proves that there is still room to improve the HYCOM numerical model. The effect of the missing tail on extreme value predictions was estimated with a simplified EVA. Despite the short time series, the error can be estimated at 22% underestimation for rare events with a return period of &gt; 10years. However, the error presents very low variability for rare events, and the error converges to a value close to 22%. This makes it easy to account for in design processes. Nevertheless, these results should be addressed in future research in order to accurately identify the source of the error and to characterize it over a larger area, instead of a single point.</p>
<p>As shown by the large CI<sub>95%</sub> of the simplified EVA, the temporal coverage of the empirical data is not sufficient to reliably estimate extreme values. However, the error between the extreme value predictions of empirical and numerical data is consistent. This error gives the necessary information to have sufficiently detailed knowledge on the extreme value predictions derived from the HYCOM model.</p>
<p>For most of the nodes, the EVA showed consistent behaviour over the domain analysed. Some inconsistencies were found, especially at the boundary of the numerical domain and on the northwest edge of the continental shelf. Besides the significant changes in the bathymetry in those regions, the ordered grid of the numerical model might not be fully capable of representing the nature of the current in boundaries that are not aligned with the grid. As can be seen for the node at P4, the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub> is large, and the multimodal peak distribution suggests an unusual behaviour of the HYCOM data for this area. The results for these nodes may be unreliable, and it is suggested that the data obtained for these locations is used with special care.</p>
<p>The other three nodes, which had more information on the GPD fit, showed unremarkable results, as the EVA represents a good fit for the numerical observations. For most nodes, 100% of the numerical observations were found to be within the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub>. This share should be much closer to 95%, indicating that the estimated CI<sub>95%</sub> is larger than it should be. In contrast to the assumed symmetric distribution of the CI<sub>95%</sub>, a log-likelihood profile could give better results and might be investigated in future studies if the overestimation of the CI<sub>95%</sub> represents an issue.</p>
<p>The extreme values found a reasonable distance from the coast vary considerably. Therefore, it is important to carefully select a region with similar behaviour in terms of GPD fit. Basing design values on a region with heterogeneous behaviour could lead to erroneous design choices. Besides the variability, regions with similar return periods are found on either side of Cozumel Island. In terms of extreme currents, with reduced effort it may be possible to adapt energy harvesting devices designed for Cozumel Channel conditions to the conditions on the east coast of Cozumel.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s5">
<title>5 Conclusions</title>
<p>It was found that the HYCOM model does not accurately reproduce the current velocities in the Cozumel Channel. Adjusting the model with a linear quantile regression reduces the mean absolute relative error to 15.3%, but the lack of a tail in the distribution of the numerical data leads to an underestimation of extreme values of almost 22%.</p>
<p>Applied to a range of nodes within the Mexican Caribbean, the methodology showed consistently &#x2013; and to some extent predictable &#x2013; behaviour. In the Cozumel Channel and in the main current, the threshold and the extreme values are naturally higher than in regions with lower current intensities. The difference in return levels can be explained by the threshold and the scale parameter.</p>
<p>Despite the shortcomings of the numerical model, the methodology presented for estimating extreme values of ocean currents based on HYCOM data proves to be a valuable tool due to the predictability of the error for extreme values.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s6" sec-type="data-availability">
<title>Data Availability Statement</title>
<p>The raw data supporting the conclusions of this article are available from the corresponding author, MR, upon reasonable request.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s7" sec-type="author-contributions">
<title>Author Contributions</title>
<p>Conceptualization and methodology: PR-O and MR; data processing, analysis and visualisation: MR; writing &#x2013; original draft preparation: PR-O and MR; writing &#x2013; review and editing: PR-O, MR, RS, and EM; supervision and project administration: RS and EM; funding acquisition: EM; All authors contributed to manuscript revision, read, and approved the submitted version.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s8" sec-type="funding-information">
<title>Funding</title>
<p>This research was funded by the CONACYT-SENER-SUSTENTABILIDAD ENERG&#xc9;TICA project: FSE-2014-06-249795 &#x201c;Centro Mexicano de Innovaci&#xf3;n en Energ&#xed;a del Oc&#xe9;ano (CEMIE Oc&#xe9;ano)&#x201d;.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s9" sec-type="COI-statement">
<title>Conflict of Interest</title>
<p>The authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="s10" sec-type="disclaimer">
<title>Publisher&#x2019;s Note</title>
<p>All claims expressed in this article are solely those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of their affiliated organizations, or those of the publisher, the editors and the reviewers. Any product that may be evaluated in this article, or claim that may be made by its manufacturer, is not guaranteed or endorsed by the publisher.</p>
</sec>
</body>
<back>
<ack>
<title>Acknowledgments</title>
<p>The authors would like to thank Julio Candela and Julio Sheinbaum for permission to use their empirical data and Jill Taylor for reviewing the English language. Furthermore, the first author is grateful for the financial support provided by the CONACYT doctoral fellowship.</p>
</ack>
<sec id="s11">
<title>Abbreviations</title>
<p>GPD, Generalized Pareto Distribution; HYCOM, Hybrid Coordinate Ocean Model; POT, Peaks over threshold; CI<sub>95%,</sub> 95% confidence interval.</p>
</sec>
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